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CR 10S Pro

Leveling

Start printing ANY print and go to advanced - adjust Z to zero - Cancel print
Go to Settings and disable motors
with nozzle resting on .2mm spacer (Frosted shim stock) (blue tool is 0.1mm) - adjust the prox sensor to rest on a 1mm block.
Adjust prox sensor to just turn on (multi-turn pot)
On start up
Put 2 100mm blocks under horizontal bars to chassis base and adjust bar to good fit manually - hold left drive in place and go to move - move Z up
Go to LEVELING_MENU
Wait for home
The Z-adjust changes the z offset - it is not a move.
.2mm spacer should just slide under nozzle - Tweak prox sensor Repeat home until adjust Z until just touches - Home button should repeat homing
Go to the LEVELING_AUX sub menu - Adjust the 4 corners to just touch nozzle to .2mm spacer - Best way to do this is to first adjust for the prox-sensor light to just go on - then use the .2mm gauge.
Run auto level - check numbers -
Try a print - if the first layer is too thin - you can adjust it during the print. This is called Z-axis compensation. Negative means decreasing the distance to the bed and positive is increasing it.
Base Plate
FR4 is great --> IF <-- cleaned with acetone.

Installing Micro Swiss all metal hotend kit

When reinstalling - use high quality heat sink compound on thermistor and heater. Nozzle has a 3.3 N-M torque [30In-lb] Tighten when hot! Nozzle is 0.4mm
Themistor needs kapton tape washers to prevent shorting. This appears to be an MK8 standard nozzle.

MK8 nozzle specification

"MK" comes from "Mark" as a version designation system, Makerbot started this series with their hotends.

Thread Size: M6 x 1.0

Wrench Size: 7mm .

Thread Length: ~5mm .

Nozzle Tip: Sharply angled sides, giving it a more pointed appearance compared to other designs .

Rewiring

The system does not have the proper wires for motion - best to replace with silicone insulated super fine stranded wire. (BNTECHGO)

Powersupply is a Mean-Well RSP-500-24 (550W 24V) The heaters are the only thing with much current - The nozzle uses about 2A@24V (about 50W) - so 22 or even 24Gauge should be OK. The Bed is supposed to be 250W so a little over 10A - so I would go with 18 Gauge wire.

Best settings 0.4 nozzle with hot-end

Quality

Layer height 0.12

Line width 0.4

Walls

Wall Thickness 1.2

Wall line count 2

Desicant

Activated Alumina works better than silica gel - to recharge it: 1.5 hours @ 290°C (550°F) or 2 hours @ 230°C (450°F)

Materials settings

Nylon or PA (Polyamide)

Nylon is not a THING - it is several things - a class of things

Poly(ω-undecanamide), PA11 187

PA12 anneal 130°C for 5 hours Poly(decamethylene sebacamide), PA10,10     202
Poly(hexamethylene sebacamide), PA6,10     224
Poly(decamethylene adipamide), PA10,6     235
Poly(hexamethylene suberamide), PA6,8     236
Poly(hexamethylene adipamide), PA6,6     272

PA6

Annealing Nylon -

NylonX (PA12 with carbon fiber)

Nylonx is nylon with 25% carbon fiber.

Print on bare glass (FR$?) with glue stick - hair spray? print temp 255 buildplate 110 standby 180 retract dist 5mm retract speed 45mm/s fan anneal 130°C for 5 hours

PET

Poly(ethylene terephthalate), PET 264

PETG

70-80 bed - fan on - nozzle 220-265 - 255 seems best. Need initial layer height set to 0.24 - fan off for first 3 layers - then on. Print on glass (FR$?)with hairspray.